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In line (pun intended) with our recent Time Travel event, we are delving into the past, present, and future of fashion and the inevitable life cycle of trends.
It is out with the old and in with the new. Whether you are a mob-wife adorned in fur, dressed head to toe in pink ribbons and all things coquette, love the refined look of the ‘clean-girl’, or daring to push the boundaries with the grunge-look, the number of trends today is endless, each making a reappearance at some point in time. The truth is that old is the new new, and it seems that it always has been. Whilst today we may consider leather jackets of the 50s and flared jeans of the 70s as ‘old’ or ‘vintage’, these terms meant something different for those eras. ‘Vintage’ appears to be in a constant state of evolution, its meaning changing over time.
Take the hippies of the 70s for example, who took great influence from 19th century bohemia, a style that was their vintage. Originating from the French bohème, the bohemian movement was the emergence of a social and cultural shift in the 1800s, providing a lifestyle that did not adhere to contemporary societal conventions. This way of life, built around the poverty of the time, emphasised community, the appreciation for literature and art, and a rejection of materialism. The bohemian ideals were reflective in their clothing, straying away from the more conservative fashion of the 1800s towards flowy, loose, and colourful garments. Fashion acted as a tool to mobilise the bohemian movement.
The hippies of the 1970s held similar ideals too, and so the ‘vintage’ trend of bohemia became an influence over 100 years later, seeing a resurgence in the ideals and aesthetic of the style. It does not end there, as the bohemian style saw a reappearance in fashion in the early 2000s, the trend now coined as ‘boho-chic’ as it adopted a slightly more refined take on the earthy tones, retro patterns, and natural fabrics of the style. The resurface of the aesthetic was made even more popular by celebrities such as Kate Moss and the Olsen twins, bringing light to the hippy-boho style whilst serving as an example of fashion’s cyclical nature.
Today, trends change at an almost too-difficult-to-follow rate, with new (or old) styles constantly emerging in fashion. So why do trends change so often? Evidently, society takes influence from previously popular trends, perhaps supporting the political and societal ideals and lifestyles that these movements stood for. But there is also a question of quality when considering the constant changes in fashion. With the rise in fast fashion, clothes are produced much faster, on a larger scale, and at cheaper prices to reflect and satisfy the continuous shifts towards new trends and styles in fashion. The manufacturing of garments in this way is problematic, as clothes that are made faster and cheaper have profound implications on the environment, the labourers, and on the quality of the finished goods. Durability is important in fashion, however as fast fashion clothing is made using cheap materials in poor conditions, we can be assured that their quality often will not withstand the hand of time. The result? The consumer is forced to replace these clothes more often, and so the producer constantly produces clothes that follow fashion cycles and trends, whilst perpetuating the same poor quality. Clothing that is made to be more sustainable on the other hand, lasts longer and needs replacing less often.
'I think virality is no longer sustainable. Virality doesn't uphold longevity'.
It does not end there. Social media plays an even bigger role in the never-ending cycle of trends. In his interview with Teen Vogue earlier this year, environmentalist Isaias Hernandez underlined the negative role social media plays in sustainability. ‘TikTok pushes out new viral trends every week that I think is going to be forgotten’ he says. ‘I think virality is no longer sustainable. Virality doesn’t uphold longevity’. Hernandez’s critique of social media highlights the constant evolution and change in fashion. Whilst this continual transformation allows for creativity, new styles, or the reappearance of trends from the past, in terms of sustainability and durability, social media is a detriment to fashion.
So, what does this mean for the future of fashion? It is clear that social media is permanent, so trends will inevitably rise and fall, resurfacing over time. However, sustainability is becoming a bigger necessity and concern in the fashion world, with more and more people choosing to shop second-hand. Through this, the burden of constantly purchasing items to fit a trend or aesthetic is lessened as buyers seek cheaper, more sustainable alternatives. There is also a greater push for sustainable fashion brands that provide better quality clothing, as well as an insistence on buying less clothes, focusing more on quality. Shopping second-hand is undeniably important in the cycle of trends for those that like to closely follow what is in fashion, replicating popular aesthetics in their style. It offers an alternative to fast fashion, whilst satisfying the needs of sustainability.
Once a trend ends, it is likely that it will re-materialise at some point in time, meaning clothes do not go to waste. It is important that the clothes we purchase extend the duration of what is deemed ‘trendy’, especially in the ever-changing world of fashion, that is accelerated by social media. So, hold on to your fur coats, bows, and cowboy boots, as even if they were to fade from fashion existence, they will most likely make a reappearance sooner than not. That being said, whilst trends have proven to reoccur all throughout fashion history, let us hope that skinny jeans are in fact a thing of the past...
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