Untamed Elegance: The Savannah as Seen on the Runway

When thinking of the savannah as a biome, it is impossible not to picture the animal prints we have seen dominating global fashion trends, from the likes of fall 2024 collections seen from Alexander McQueen, Alaïa, Christian Dior, Isabel Marant, Versace and more, to our university campus. Although the trend appears to be at an all-time high, animal prints have remained a phenomenon since the 1950s. As savannah-inspired looks will grace the ‘Echoes of the Universe’ runway, it seems fitting to honour several iconic moments in which animal print, earthy tones, cracked leather and other savannah-inspired themes have been seen on the runway over the years.

Dolce & Gabbana are one of the first fashion houses that come to mind when we think of animal print. The fashion house recently suggested that leopard print is suitable for all kinds of weather in their Spring/Summer 24 runway. The collection featured both a full-length leopard print rain mac as well as a full-length leopard print fur coat, offering a shift from the otherwise largely monochrome looks seen on the runway.

Going back in time to London’s Borough Market in 1997, Alexander McQueen stages his It’s a Jungle Out There runway, taking inspiration from H.G Well’s novel The Island of Dr. Moreau in which a vivisectionist creates humanoids from animals. The runway saw feline-esque makeup and outfits comprised of leather, acid-washed denim, and animal skins as well as hair turned into manes. The artistic director of the show, Simon Costin, took inspiration from McQueen’s mood board of gazelles being torn apart by lions and hyenas, reminiscent of the unforgiving habitat of the savannah. Several mishaps made this runway even more memorable, such as Naomi Campbell reportedly arriving late as well as one of the decorative cars setting ablaze after a fire heater was kicked over by an audience member. McQueen extended the unrelenting, cut-throat nature of the animal kingdom beyond the concept of his runway, angrily turning Campbell away as well as sending models out despite the flaming car.

As said by Jo Weldon in her book Fierce: The History of Leopard Print, 'People who wear leopard print aren’t afraid to make themselves visible. They wear it to stand out, not to blend in'. Fausto Puglisi’s Spring/Summer 2022 runway for Roberto Cavalli takes this to a new level with his vibrant, neon and bejewelled collection of animal print attire. Keen to make a distinction between his and Cavalli’s designs, Puglisi did not shy away from making a statement on the runway, pairing a leopard print catsuit with a zebra-stripe trench. He finds that the loud patterns of his designs enable the wearers, such as Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Lopez, to find empowerment in their clothing. Puglisi explores the line between power and softness, including a combination of structured blazers with flowing gowns, representing the duality of the animals he takes inspiration from.

Led by creative director Nadège Vanhée, the Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 runway took us on an elegant safari in the plains of Africa in which models walked amidst tall grass and brush. The transition of the colour of the looks from chestnut to taupe, red, chocolate, ivory, and black incites images of a warm sunset over the savannah, further enriched by the peaceful background music of natural wildlife which slowly progresses to booming drums. These transitions invoke the continuous cycle of the savannah from peaceful and picturesque to unrelenting and eerie. The materials used on the runway are perfect for the heat, consisting of wide-leg, cream silk trousers and paper bag skirts. Even the clothing associated with colder weather, such as their leather longline blazers and midi skirts, are adjusted for the Spring/Summer season, often leaving midriffs exposed and appearing softer and flowing rather than heavy and conservative. Of course, Hermès included their iconic accessories with a safari-inspired twist, utilising totes filled to the brim with straw and wildflowers and leather sandals to polish off the looks.

From head-turning animal prints to sunset-esque silk, there have been numerous iconic moments on the runway that take inspiration from the duality of the savannah. This brief history of savannah-inspired runways sparks excitement concerning the designs of the ‘Echoes of the Universe’ collection, helping us to understand the references taken from the runways of yesterday to the runways of tomorrow.