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Glacial Requiem: Honouring the Glacial Through Fashion
- Ayşe Oltan
- Mar 26
- 3 min read
Fashion’s impact on the natural world is indisputable. With the growth in fast fashion, the never-ending cycle of trends, and mass-consumption, it comes as no surprise that the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of the global annual carbon footprint (Uniform Market). This statistic accounts for more carbon emissions than the combination of flights and naval shipping (Uniform Market) and is projected to increase by 60% by 2030, according to UN Climate Change. WWF cements this environmental concern stating: ‘Since the early 1900s, many glaciers around the world have been rapidly melting. Human activities are at the root of this phenomenon’.
Whilst nature often acts as a source of inspiration for many designers and runway collections, the impact of the fashion industry is often overlooked. Studies have found that washing synthetic clothing has a direct effect on the pollution of the Arctic through microplastic fibres, with a comprehensive study finding that microplastics were present in 96/97 bodies of sea water that were sampled from the polar region (The Guardian). These statistics pose a concerning threat to glaciers, a central component to the glacial biome that will be represented in the opening section of LINE’s 2025 Fashion Show, Echoes of the Universe.
The show will utilise fashion as a means to celebrate the natural world whilst relaying the concerns surrounding it. Charlotte Shao, founder of the independent fashion label SISIO, is an example of a designer that places these concerns at the forefront of her designs, as she celebrates the beauty and importance of nature. ‘Nature’s force transcends human control’, she explains, ‘displaying both grandeur and vulnerability. If humanity continues to wreak havoc on ecological environments, we’ll inevitably face greater catastrophes’. Shao’s debut Tokyo FW'24 collection, Glacial Requiem, is dedicated to the glacial biome within Iceland, drawing attention to the environmental difficulties and problems that it faces. In 2019, Iceland sadly commemorated the disappearance of the glacier named Okjokull, a result of the growing disappearance rates of glaciers in Iceland reaching 11 billion tons annually, despite ice compromising 11% of Iceland’s land. This is a trend that, as studies have shown, will only worsen. Shao explains, ‘Scientists predict that without intervention, Iceland’s glaciers could vanish entirely by 2200.
Her collection, therefore, pays homage to the natural landscape of the world that faces grave danger. Shao incorporates blue in her designs as a symbolic reflection of the tones of blue found in glaciers and oceans. The collection has a dynamism and fluidity through its look, reflecting the natural movement of bodies of water in glacial regions, without understating its grandeur. Her intention to honour this biome is reflected in every aspect of its creation. From the ice dying technique, utilised to colour fabrics, to the makeup and hair styling, fashioned intentionally to create the impression of melting ice and glaciers, the glacial region remains at the heart of Shao’s craft.
She is also conscientious in her fabric choice, implementing abaca, an eco-friendly fabric created from the fibres of banana trees. This choice benefits the environment in two ways: minimal chemical treatment is utilised and the rate of which banana trees grow ensures that exploitation of land and water resources is limited. Shao explains: ‘Through this collection, I fervently hope to evoke a profound appreciation for nature’s beauty, reigniting our love for it and inspiring tangible action to nurture and protect this precious habitat that sustains us all’. Her collection is intentionally and meticulously curated to be harmonious with the biome, perhaps as a nod towards the ways people and the fashion industry can work with nature, rather than against it.
The role of fashion is reinforced and rethought through LINE’s 2025 fashion show, Echoes of the Universe, drawing attention towards the mobilising messages that can be transmitted through clothing. As we celebrate the wonders of the glacial through the show, it is important to remember the impact that the fashion industry and consumption has on this natural wonder. One thing is for sure, urgent action and efforts must be made to preserve these biomes. As Shao puts it, ‘let us all remember the responsibility we bear to safeguard [nature] for future generations’. Fashion, therefore, must be a tool for change, a tool for a more sustainable future, a tool for preserving the realms of the universe.
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