Fashion Set in Stone: How Rugged, Earthy Aesthetics Are Shaping Runways

Fashion is often defined by the destruction of boundaries, explorations of the physical world, and artistic reinterpretation of natural forms. What happens when you introduce high-couture to the underground realm? From the otherworldly atmosphere of crystal-studded caverns to the rugged textures of the cave walls, fashion inspired by caves may embody earthy tones, organic silhouettes, and an overall sense of primal elegance.

For her Autumn/Winter 2007 show ‘Wake Up Cave Girl!’, celebrated designer Vivienne Westwood curated a line heavily inspired by the Stone Age. The looks included high furry hats, knitted wrapped cardigans, and bone pendants hanging from the models’ necks (Nzherlad.co.nz). She expressed to journalists that the message of the show was that the cave girl ‘doesn’t know that human beings have a choice. They can become cultivated… or become animals that destroy’. She then clarifies that ‘we have become animals that destroy’.

“The message is that there is no progress without culture”- Vivienne Westwood, 2007.

The catwalk was filled with hyper-exaggerations of the female form, using hip pads, over-knee boots, and mini skirts. Westwood sought to bring a new sense of style to the commonly filthy and base cultural depiction of cavemen, such as in the animated American sitcom The Flintstones.

Another take on the cave aesthetic in the fashion world is the consideration of the Palaeolithic cave paintings of Europe, some of the world’s earliest examples of what humans consider artwork. The Lascaux cave paintings, dating back over 17,000 years, are some of the best-preserved instances of such works. Christian Dior’s 1951 Ovale collection was inspired by these caves in the South of France. Artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri mimicked the idea in 2018 by conducting a Resort Cruise Pre-Spring Women's Runway in Los Angeles, California. The collection channelled the same cave painting inspirations, featuring them on the fabrics, as well as introducing a new western dimension with fur coats and earthy tones.

In terms of the next evolutionary steps in the fashion industry, caves may provide a rich source of inspiration. Perhaps in future collections we will begin to see designers drawing on the interplay between light and darkness. Underwater caves, such as the Blue Grotto, could inspire a palette of shimmering blue hues and fluid silhouettes that mirror the movement of water. At the same time, fashion could follow the historical route, reimagining the raw, primal aesthetics of early human clothing from the Stone Age. These modern interpretations could include faux animal fur, strips of leather woven into garments, and plant-like textures which reflect this Prehistoric Era. Both caves and the fashion industry share their capacity to sustain human life, whilst also having a visually striking and storytelling dimension.