_PNG.png)
Antevorta is the Roman Goddess of the Future, notes Amit Aggarwal, designer of the FW24 'ANTEVORTA' collection. The binary star Gamma Virginis, a star in the Virgo constellation, officially named Porrima but also known as Antevorta, is named after her. It seems fitting, then, that Aggarwal's collection seeks to represent the relationship between time and the universe.
According to Aggarwal's website, '('ANTEVORTA') captures the intangible and eternal nature of time, shaping a unique brand identity that reflects its omnipresence in our world'.
The lenses of the past, present, and future blur in Aggarwal's creation of each garment for this collection, where the essence of time is explored in a mythological, cosmological, philosophical, religious, and scientific sense. The convergence of these perspectives allows for Aggarwal to explore the relationship between time and the universe in a way that reflects both on the ethos of his brand and on the future of couture.
The designer grew up in a family of engineers and scientists in India, as per his biography on the brand's website. His biography notes that as a child, his mother had stumbled upon a wedding saree of hers. It had a glowing yellow pattern with a gota sequin trim in a sunburst motif. This 'bright, colourful, metallic' iconography and the memory of his father's mathematical blueprints scattered around his engineering workshop seared themselves into his consciousness, informing his appreciation for time - particularly, inception.
He has always been interested in the sciences, although one could surely infer this from the brand's history. Since its debut, almost every runway collection has been inspired by a scientific phenomenon; his 2022 collection was named 'PEDESIS', after the random motion of small particles to honour the idea of 'random connections giving rise to something more'. Days observing his father work on engineering projects as a child ensured his interest in form and structure, an intrigue observable in every garment in this collection.
Aggarwal suggests that 'ANTEVORTA' embraces theatricality.
The notable elements in 'ANTEVORTA' are consistent across much of the brand. Aggarwal suggests that 'ANTEVORTA' embraces theatricality. Each piece 'shimmers with starlight' through intricate crystal detailing, transforming the runway into a 'celestial spectacle'. His designs are reminiscent of his culture in their reinterpretation of older textiles like banarasi, whilst reflecting the flow of time by integrating innovative techniques. 'ANTEVORTA' tells a story, one which has no real beginning or end, much like the universe itself. The garments' futuristic likening serves to reflect time through the lens of the future, which is fascinating when considered with Aggarwal's emphasis on inception. Perhaps, this signals a shift in vision for the Amit Aggarwal brand.
Aggarwal creating his own visual language to allow for the comprehension of the, in his own words, 'indefinable, incomprehensible and intangible' relationship between time and the universe, cements his brand's status as having something monumental to offer the future of couture.
...couture enables the recognition of artistry and craftmanship above all, whilst being a medium for innovation.
His most significant contribution will surely be his appreciation for couture. The rise of anti-intellectual thought has allowed for fashion as a medium to be dismissed as frivolous, and couture has been at the forefront of this discourse. Mainly, couture's deviation from 'ready-to-wear' clothing towards wearable artwork has given rise to debate arguing against its value. However, couture is valuable precisely because it walks that thin line. Aggarwal attests to this, defending couture in an interview with Elle India. He argues that couture enables the recognition of artistry and craftsmanship above all, whilst being a medium for innovation. To the individual, bespoke couture can be incredibly personal.
Simply put, Aggarwal respects the medium he works in - in his Elle India interview, the interviewer asks him which iconic Bollywood movie he would like his pieces styled in, and he politely refutes the basis of her question by pointing out the 'ANTEVORTA' exists outside of trends, as it transcends time entirely. This collection represents a recognition of the deeper value of couture and is capable of complex expression. Above all, it signals itself as evidence that Amit Aggarwal's vision has a future.
Sources
A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Biography and Mythology, (2024). Antevorta. [online] tufts.edu. Available at: https://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus:text:1999.04.0104:entry=antevorta-bio-1
Amit Aggarwal (2024). RUNWAY ANTEVORTA. [online] Amit Aggarwal. Available at: https://www.amitaggarwal.com/pages/runway-antevorta
Kaul, I. (2024). ELLE First Look: Amit Aggarwal on ‘Antevorta,’ His Upcoming Collection at India Couture Week That Transcend Trends. [online] Elle India. Available at: https://elle.in/elle-first-look-amit-aggarwal-antevorta/
Kommentare